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| Walking the dog - Summer |
WALKING THE DOG
(“If you don’t know how to do it, I will show you how to walk the dog,” Rufus Thomas 1963)
I was asked to put down a few thoughts about walking the dog, and I thought, “sure, I can do that.”
It didn’t take too long before I realized what a huge subject this is, taking the dog for a walk. So many important issues are involved that I barely know where to begin, so let’s just begin at the beginning.
A dog is a social pack animal. While he needs many things to survive, such as food, shelter from harsh weather, and a water source, in order to survive in a happy, successful manner appropriate to his own instincts, he must have a pack. It could be one other dog, a bunch of dogs, a person, a bunch of people. Sometimes, as with livestock guarding dogs, sheep can substitute for that pack, assembling a group wherein the dog feels relaxed, safe, and accepted. And where he knows his duty.
Because, you see, each dog is born wanting to be a part of that greater thing - that pack or group - and he wants to know where in that group he fits. What is the role he must play? Were your pal a wild canid, he might be the babysitter, or the Alpha male or female; he might be the one that circles behind the prey while another pack member charges in from the front. Whatever his job, once puppyhood is over, he learns it. He does it. And, if he wants to survive, he succeeds at it more times than not.
So what is the point of that notice with regard to taking our dogs out for a walk?
Our dogs, no matter the breed, sex or how independent they may seem, want to form a pack with their family. In that pack, there is always one leader. Leadership may be slightly fluid. That is, most days Mr. Human may take the leash, tell Rover to “heel” and they both march off down the driveway. However, on another occasion, Mr. Human decides Rover should learn to use his nose and they sign up for a nose work class. We humans have no nose whatsoever compared to a dog, so in nose work class, the dog takes the lead.
Thus, while leadership is fluid in a sense, your dog should always feel that you are the Leader. This means: you know where you are going; you know how you are going to get there; you know where the rest of the group is and what jobs they have (front, rear, etc.); you know how to find your way back. When a dog experiences this kind of leadership, he knows his human always has his back. He knows his human is confident and can handle situations as they arise.
We may be kidding them a bit when we take on this role, but our job here is similar to a Mother when she tells her child, “there are no monsters under the bed. I said so, and I am your Mother.” Mother knows that while there may be no monsters under the bed, some monsters do exist in this world, but she is saying to her dependent child, “I have your back. Don’t worry.”
So leadership is important when walking a dog, and the dog walk is the best place to develop that Leader-Follower relationship that is so integral to your dog’s desire and well-being.
In developing our leadership role, we have to find a way to get the dog to follow us. When Rover is walking on leash, unless he is given a “release” cue, he should be walking slightly to the rear, or right next to us. There are two basic reasons for this. First, if Rover is in front, he is going to pull. And even if that were not the case, Mr. Human cannot discern behavioral cues from his dog in a timely (and preventative) manner if the dog is six feet in front and weaving from side to side.
We need to teach our dogs to walk calmly, pleasantly, and tolerantly on the leash.
In dog-walking and training, I prefer a six-foot leather lead above all things. The lead on a dog is similar to the halter and reins on a horse in that the dog can FEEL EVERYTHING (did I say that loudly enough?) through that leather. Although other kinds of leashes are available, when we use a web lead or, heaven forbid, chain, the dog senses less from us and is that much less responsive to our hand cues.
While some leads have more than one purpose and may be valuable in a different context, I rate walking leads as follows:
- A+ ⁃ 6-foot leather
- A- ⁃ Show-type all-in-one
- B+ ⁃ 6-foot heavy webbing
- A ⁃ 4-foot leather
- A- ⁃ 18-inch leather traffic lead
- F ⁃ Flexi leash; rope leash; chain leash
Chain, rope, or lightweight webbing I would rate as Zero because the dog will have trouble feeling your body and hand cues, the materials are either too heavy or insufficiently strong.
A leash used for training purposes, such as a long line or flexi-lead is another story. Long lines and Flexis are excellent for certain functions, but not appropriate for building leadership and relationship while walking the dog. Also, in general, neither of these is safe to use where other dogs or people may be encountered.
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| Martingale collar - kinder than the choker |
Collars
We haven’t even gone for that walk yet and here we are talking about one of the first things our dogs learn to wear: the collar.
For some reason I don’t understand, nowadays everyone is putting their dog in a harness while the collar remains decorative at best. So let’s talk about harnesses.
There are only two kinds of dog harnesses: a pulling harness; a no-pull harness. While several different manufacturers produce both kinds of harnesses under various names, this is the way all of them work:
First, the “no pull” harness. Two kinds are prevalent; they both wrap around the shoulder/chest area, and usually have a D-ring on top of the shoulder. One no-pull harness reaches under the tender armpit and if the dog pulls hard, the resulting sensation is uncomfortable to it. Therefore, it does not pull. Many times dogs which wear this harness every day end up with no hair in the armpit, or sport an overall pink soreness in that area. In other words, just be aware that when we use this type of apparatus, we are making the dog uncomfortable because we, the humans, have not mastered the simple art of walking our dogs.
A more recent variation of the “no pull” looks very similar to the armpit bruiser, but does not cause the same amount of pinching and hair loss. This harness purports to use pressure on the chest to stop pulling. Some reviewers have implied it did not work well for their dog; others have enjoyed it.
My observation of dogs in no-pull harnesses is that, even when the dog’s pulling motion is quashed, the dog is generally still paying no attention to the handler. In other words, the harness is purchased because the dog, paying no attention to Mr. Human at the other end of the lead, has been dragging that poor man hither and thither, without regard. With the no-pull, the dog can no longer drag his human because an apparatus is in place that makes this impossible. However, no learning has been accomplished. No respect has been earned. The dog continues to be over-stimulated and distracted; however, he can’t pull.
There is nothing in wearing a harness that tunes the dog into the person in attendance, nor will Mr. Human find himself making progress in relating with his dog. Hopes of achieving a fuller understanding, and deepening the dog-human bond will not be supported by the use of the harness.
Of course, if one’s intent is simply to get the dog out and about, no matter what, and the dog has NOT been taught to walk properly on lead, a no-pull harness does allow for outings although it is not a training tool.
Dog harnesses that are not designated “no pull” are made in the same general way that a sled or cart harness is made. In other words, such harnesses are designed to encourage a dog to pull, and the majority of dogs on harnesses do just that. Thrusting forward into a harness not only puts the dog into an excited state with Mr. Human dragging behind, it also puts the dog out front where it can be more easily distracted, or even injured.
I don’t know if studies have been conducted on the negative physical effects of a dog pulling sideways for long periods of time, walking with its legs almost parallel to the ground as it attempts, in harness, to drag the human weight behind while it merrily pulls itself along toward each new and delightful distraction.
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| Flat leather collar-top; web collar bottom |
Now - on to neck collars. Our dogs should always wear some kind of neck collar when away from home. Not a training collar, necessarily, but a collar that carries his ID and tags. Let's talk more about neck collars below.
Leather collars. Great, painless, long lasting with proper care.
Web collars. Collars with snap-closures
Depends on the collar. Some are very strong and well-made. Washable if a buckle collar (the snap can break in the laundry but such a collar can be hand-washed). Plastic snap closure collars are fine, as long as the snap is sufficiently sturdy.
Choke chains. Cause damage to the esophagus long term, even if used correctly. However, when used properly, dogs that have been trained to respond to this apparatus generally walk well on lead. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find a dog trainer who has enough patience and kindness, and tolerance and goodwill with humans, to be able to demonstrate the chain collar “leash pop” effectively. Many dogs on chokes are either choking away, because they have not been trained, or are dragged along, choking on the chain, or have experienced so many pops, or such long strangulations, that they become inured to the choke chain and become non-responsive to corrections. Used correctly, and minimally to avoid throat damage, it's ok.
Prong collars
Prong collars were designed as training tools. They were never intended as everyday collars. When I see Mr. Human walking Mr. Dog on a prong collar, I know there is something missing in the relationship. And if this finger is pointing at “you” - don’t get mad, do something about your relationship with that dog.
Prong facts: aggressive dogs often become more aggressive in a prong, especially when they jump into the prong during stimulation. This type of dog perceives the pinch of the prong as a bite or strike by whatever he is aggressing over. Some dogs, not aggressive at the start, begin to act-out when put into a prong because - again - they perceive the pinch of the prong as a strike at them.
Do prong collars ever break? Yes! Oftener than any other collar I can think of.
Do some dogs, whose handlers have had trouble getting the dog to walk nicely on lead become less of a liability when put in a prong collar? Yes. Such dogs are usually kind and sensitive, but excitable and easily distracted. Therefore, the prongs are a “reminder” to them that they are in collar and must not pull too hard.
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| Gentle Leader on 150lb. Caucasian Ovcharka |
Nose collars: Halti, Gentle Leader, Snoot Loop, K9 Bridle
Each of these head collars is based on the prototype of a horse bridle: i.e., where the head goes, the body must follow.
Some head collars are less expensive than others, but, having used each of these items on various dogs and occasions, I have found them to be invariably well made.
The Halti seemed to make my dogs more physically uncomfortable due to the rigidity of the structure.
The Gentle Leader tends to take a dog down a notch, psychologically, if the dog has any resentment at all or dislike of the sensation of the nose piece. However, if you are walking a very large dog, an easily stimulated dog, an occasionally out-of-control dog, or a dog that has not been neutered, this slight “down” in demeanor is quite helpful.
The Snoot Loop is a lighter-weight version of the same idea so if you have a well behaved dog that you simply would prefer to lead by the head, this might be the right nose collar for you.
The K9 bridle is probably the cleverest design. It allows the lead to be attached behind the neck, and has a martingale strip that attaches to the collar so that the dog is slightly limited in its ability to raise its head high (as in a dominance move) or even swing it completely side to side (as in a “I’m not paying attention to you or anybody” move).
The pleasure of utilizing a Nose or Head Collar is that, when properly introduced to the dog, and the enclosed literature studied by the human, it works almost immediately in reducing pulling and allowing the dog to be sufficiently calm on the walk so that it can take cues from the handler. Also, a dog in a Head Collar is easily placed properly for the walk; i.e., by your side.
The same type of training we might undertake on a walk with a plain collar and lead (Sit, Down, Stay, Wait, Leave It, Drop It, and so forth) can be achieved with the Nose Collar as well.
While a flat collar and lead are more versatile (you can change from proper walking, to nose-work, to letting the dog pull you up a hill, etc.), the Nose Collar is the second best bet in the equipment bag for that dog owner/trainer/handler/walker who wants to achieve not only exercise and pleasure for the dog, but wants to build that deep, committed, responsive, respectful and rewarding relationship with their dog.
Last but not least, the back pack. Back packs are super handy. When a dog is wearing a back pack, it is doing a job. It knows it. I don’t know how it knows, but it does.
If you try to put a cap and jacket on your dog to take a silly photo, chances are he will spin around and rip the jacket off after shaking his head hard and making that stupid ball cap fly. When you put a back pack on your dog, once he realizes that you want it on there, he will leave it alone. Then you can put in your water, your cell, a snack for you both, and anything else Rover is big enough to carry comfortably on a walk or hike.
So much for the dog's equipment. Let’s talk about Mr. Human.
Your equipment, Mr. H. Of course, you have your lead and collar - whichever you have chosen. And your dog! Next, you may want a walking stick as it is so very useful in so many ways - from blocking your dog, to helping you up a steep wash, to fending off an aggressive anything, to holding you up when you’ve twisted an ankle.
Next, water. Unless the walk is a short, around-the-blocker, it is wise to take along a bottle of water for you both.
And a snack for you both. If you are going to do a little side training, make sure to take some treats or a toy so that Rover gets paid.
The cell phone. Ah, the cell phone. If you walk the dog further than around the block, it is wise to take along the cell. If you are attacked by another dog, if your own dog needs help, if you need help (twisted your ankle, for example), the cell phone is invaluable to your rescue and relief. However, please please please don’t take the cell phone along so that you can chat with someone or do business while you are walking the dog. In the dog’s world, Mr. Human chatting on his phone while he walks the dog would be similar to Mr. Human’s wife finding out that Mister is on the cell at the same time as they are having a private moment under the sheets.
I mean, it is just wrong. The walk with the dog should be relaxing, build fitness in both man and dog, and give us an opportunity to build understanding, observation, kindness, interest and a solid relationship with our dogs while also affording us the opportunity to review some behavioral cues along the way.
The Walk is a big moment in your dog’s life; don’t sully it with the cell.
And don’t forget:
The Poop Bag!
I always tell the kids, “the one who loves the dog, is the one who cleans up the poo.”
When your life is about dogs, like mine is, then poop is always a part of the daily round of chores. We all see signs on the walking paths, “Dog poop is hazardous” “Please clean up after your dog” “Poop is not hygienic.” When I see these signs two thoughts occur to me. First, why would anybody have to be TOLD that poop is “not hygienic”? And second, poop or no poop - nothing is dirtier or more likely to cause illness and contamination in humans than another human. But, hey, no one has so far asked me to pick up any poop where that came from, so no complaints.
But seriously, please pick up the poop! If you are out in the wilderness, pick it up or bury it. If you are in an open field, ditto. If you are in an open field where many dog walkers go, pick it up and cart it out. Carry poop bags with you wherever you go with your dog. If you are on a trip and forgot, many parks and beaches have poop bag holders so go grab one. If that doesn’t work, stop by the nearest market and get a plastic vegetable bag for the interim.
One of the reasons that people who don’t like dogs can attract the negative votes of people who don’t care about dogs one way or the other is poop! Whether it is a Dachshund or a St. Bernard, poop is poop. Pick it up and cart it out.
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| Web lead w-poop bag; Leather collar w-brass ID tags |
Mr. Law - (Leashes? We don’t need no stinkin’ leashes!)
We have talked above about the many kinds of leashes and how they work. Whatever lead-and-collar device you settle on, always have your dog on lead when you take a walk. In most states, counties, cities and towns, there is a leash law. Typically, the law says something like this: Dogs must be on a six-foot lead, under the control of their owners, or confined behind a secure fence at all times.
Flexi-leashes do not meet this criteria, by the way. Also, note that the law typically states “on leash, under control” which does not mean “on-leash dragging Mr. Human screaming down the lane in order to kill the neighbor’s cat.”
Of all the training a dog can receive, learning to walk on lead, comfortably, safely, humanely, tolerantly, pleasurably, joyfully, is the most important skill for that dog’s exercise and safety, as well as his relationship with you.
Exceptions to the Rule
All over the USA new dog-friendly parks and playgrounds are popping up. Each dog park has its own rules, including info on leashes, so read the rules and follow them.
On the beach or Out in the countryside
Some parks and beaches allow dogs off-lead. Read the signs and if your dog is well trained and 99.9% reliable on his recall (I don’t believe there is a 100% reliable off-lead off-collar recall) then let him enjoy nature with you off leash. When doing so, however, the onus is on you. Rover must not be in danger from traffic. He must not chase wildlife. He must not chase farm animals or disturb them in any way. He must not chase any vehicles. He must return to you on command. He must be safe around poisonous snakes (avoid them). He must be fit. He must be microchipped or easily identifiable in another way, such as a tattoo.
Hiking in the wilderness
If you are in a state or federal area, you and your dog must follow the laws and rules of that area. However, if it is safe to release your dog, then the same rules for the countryside apply. Just remember, in the wilderness to be prepared for any eventuality, such as bear, mountain lion, deer. Falling. Dehydration and so forth. Be safe. Be smart.
Other people's dogs
When your own dog is on leash, and you find yourself interested in another party’s canine companion, please ask them first if you may approach. If your dog is in a state of unbridled excitement, do not approach close enough for the dogs to touch. It isn’t fair to the dogs involved. If your dog will take a stay, down or wait and honor it, use that and approach the other dog. Ignore the dog you are approaching and focus on its handler until the new dog has accepted you by either ignoring you, moving away, or moving in to sniff you and then touching you with its nose, opening its mouth in a gentle pant, or making warm eye contact.
If you are approached by a loose dog, observe its behavior. If you do not want it to approach further, go into your Command Presence and give it the stink eye. If it continues to approach, you may stomp your foot or point in another direction and tell it sternly to “go home.” If neither of these things work, and the dog is neutral, then you will have to put up with it. If you are carrying a hiking stick do NOT brandish it at the approaching dog; however, you may slowly and rhythmically knock the stick on the ground while standing in your Command Pose. For some reason, dogs find this very off-putting without arousing their aggression.
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| Bike - leash - dog |
Finally - Can We Now Go for a Walk?
Yes. You have your dog. You have your collar and lead. You know where you are going. You will enjoy sun (or rain), wind or water, silence or bird song. Your dog will be with you, showing you with his posture and the tilt of his head, where a toad is hidden in a hole along the roadside, where a raccoon is hiding up a tree, whether a car is coming down the road behind you. He sees much. He knows much. You are paying attention. You are listening. You and your dog are taking a walk.
